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tagged: La Paz, Bolivia
Posted by Charlie in 2001 VCR South America Tour
We were whisked through immigration and customs, and into a medical room where we were given some “oxygen pills” (which will help us adapt to the rarefied atmosphere). We were also given a few “hits” of oxygen. I am certainly feeling the altitude. As soon as I got off the plane, I felt a tightening of the chest, and my heart pounded in my chest. I am also feeling somewhat nauseous. I hope this recedes.
I was somewhat disappointed by the area surrounding the airport. No high rise buildings, nothing that really looks like a city in any way. We were bundled into several small buses, and set off along a road dotted with native indians dressed in the traditional baggy dresses and hats, all carrying huge packs (made of brightly colours cloth) on their backs.
As we drove on, we rounded a corner, and dropped into a huge bowl in the mountains. Here was the city! The sight that greeted us was incredible. Thousands of houses, huddled in a seemingly random fashion, across the steep hillsides. In the bottom of the huge bowl there were a number of high-rise buildings…. All the signs of a modern metropolis, along with many signs of an ancient civilisation… side by side.
We were dropped at the Presidente Hotel, the best hotel in town (somewhat frayed about the edges, and way past its prime). I managed to lie down for a few minutes, but the singers were all whisked into another Press conference. I know we’re all tired and feeling the altitude.
John Muldowney and I took a taxi to the gig (an outdoor amphitheatre, set into the hillside) to try and make sense of what was there. And this was not much! The kit is owned by the drummer from the opening act, a half- German man called Alex. The kit is Tama and of uncertain vintage, although I suspect it to be from the early 1990’s. The heads appear to be of that age, certainly! Unfortunately I have been told that there is no possibility whatsoever of any replacements. So I set about trying to make the drums sound halfway decent, whilst John set about trying to make SOMETHING out of the sound system. It took a while for us to get anything useable out of what was available. This is certainly a far-flung outpost of civilisation, and many things we take for granted are not available. I made another mental note to try and send some accessories this way, too! Not many people turned up for soundcheck. I think we’re all feeling the ravages of an early departure and altitude. I know I am feeling tired , listless, and the tightness in my chest will not go away.
Somehow, John managed to get a sound of sorts out of the assortment of equipment, despite blown speakers, bad amplifiers etc.… The toms on the kit are totally shot, and sound like 3 pillows, but the kick and snare are just about OK.
I managed to dash back to the hotel, shower, change and throw some (really bad takeaway chicken) food down my throat before heading back to the gig. The traffic approaching the amphitheatre was chaotic, which was a good sign. Inside, the crowd was growing steadily.
Backstage was unbelievable. People without laminated backstage passes were milling around everywhere… along with Police. Apparently we have been visited by the Immigration Police, who need to see our work permits. Thank goodness I actually HAVE one for here (unlike Brazil and Peru, which is another story). In fact, we are all legal and above board here.
Oxygen was much in evidence, as was the (perfectly legal) coca tea. I had a couple of these, as I had been told that it would help open the blood vessels a bit, and improve my oxygen intake. I must say, I was feeling especially tired now. The opening act did a quick 30 minutes, and then we were on…
The sound was even worse than it had been earlier, but the crowd were appreciative, and we all did our best in the difficult circumstances. Things started to really go wrong after half way… synthesisers blew up, my drums started going in different directions, power cables were kicked out… Glenn’s bass amp broke (he also broke a string – a very rare occurrence). We soldiered on regardless, with the crowd appreciating every note. There must have been close to 7,000 people in the amphitheatre!
Amazingly enough, I made it through the gig with only one short blast of oxygen. All my attempts at increasing my aerobic capacity prior to this trip seem to have worked. I still have a splitting headache, though (apparently quite normal for us sea-level dwellers).
After the gig, it took a while to get packed up and head back to the hotel, for an all too short sleep . So far I have spent less than an hour at this hotel!
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